Meghalaya: The Abode of Clouds

Meghalaya is a small state in northeast India. It is known as the “abode of clouds” because of its high hills and heavy rain. The state covers about 22,429 square km and is bordered by Assam (India) on the north and east, and by Bangladesh on the south and west. Its capital is Shillong, a hill town often called the “Scotland of the East”. Meghalaya was formed on January 21, 1972, by separating from Assam. Today the state has about 3 million people (based on 2011 and later estimates).

Geography and Climate

Meghalaya is a hilly state with three main ranges: the Garo Hills in the west, the Khasi Hills in central, and the Jaintia Hills in the east. These hills rise from about 300–600 meters to peaks over 1,800 meters high. The southern face of the plateau is very steep, falling toward Bangladesh. The terrain is made of tablelands and narrow valleys, cut by many streams. The Umiam-Barapani River system provides hydroelectric power to the region.

The climate is generally mild and wet. Summer temperatures are usually around 20–25°C, and winter lows can be 8–10°C in Shillong. Meghalaya is famous for very heavy rain. Cherrapunji (Sohra) and nearby Mawsynram in the Khasi Hills record the highest rainfall on earth – about 11,000–18,000 mm per year during the monsoon. This lush rain gives Meghalaya dense forests (about 70% forest cover) and many waterfalls.

People and Culture

Most people in Meghalaya belong to tribal groups with rich cultures. The three largest are the Khasi, Garo, and Jaintia tribes. The Khasi and Jaintia people speak Mon-Khmer languages, and the Garo speak a Tibeto-Burman language. Khasi, Garo, Jaintia, and English are official languages of the state. Other languages like Nepali, Bengali, Assamese, and Hindi are also spoken. Because of its history, Meghalaya has a large Christian population, along with Hindus and animists.

Unique to Meghalaya is its matrilineal culture. In Khasi and Garo society, ancestry and inheritance are traced through women. The youngest daughter in a family often inherits the family property and looks after her parents. This tradition gives women a prominent role in social life.

Meghalaya’s towns are few. Shillong is the largest city, followed by Tura, Jowai, and others. Most people live in villages that work on farms. Music, dance, and festivals are important in local culture. Famous festivals include the Wangala (Hundred Drums) of the Garos, Shad Suk Mynsiem and Nongkrem Dance of the Khasis, and Behdienkhlam of the Jaintias. These events feature traditional dances, music, and rites of thanksgiving.

The capital Shillong is a green hill city often called the “Scotland of the East”. It was a British colonial hill station, and today is a modern town surrounded by pine and oak forests. Shillong offers cool weather and viewpoints such as Shillong Peak and Elephant Falls. The city is a cultural hub with museums (like the Don Bosco Museum) and annual music festivals.

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Economy

Meghalaya has a mainly agrarian economy. About two-thirds of people work in farming. Important crops include rice, maize, potatoes, millets, pineapples, and a variety of fruits and spices. The state is rich in natural resources like coal, limestone, and kaolin clay but mining has been limited for environmental reasons. There are hydropower plants (using Umiam and other rivers) that supply electricity to the region.

In recent years, the state government has pushed to grow Meghalaya’s economy. Meghalaya’s Gross State Domestic Product (GSDP) grew steadily, and the government has set a target to reach a $10 billion economy by 2028 (SRC-Theshilongtimes). The 2025-26 budget calls this “Meghalaya Mission 10”, aiming for about 12-13% annual growth. The plan focuses on sectors like tourism, agriculture, and information technology. Tourism in particular is seen as a “game changer”. The government has earmarked ₹600 crore (Rs 6 billion) for new tourism projects.

Though still developing industrially, Meghalaya is a logistic link with Bangladesh. Major highways (about 1,170 km) connect Meghalaya to Assam and other states. Trade with Bangladesh is growing, and plans like the Dhubri-Phulbari bridge and transnational corridors aim to boost commerce.

Recent Developments (Mid-2025)

Political and Economic

After the 2023 Assembly elections, Conrad Sangma (NPP) remained Chief Minister, leading a coalition government. The state government continues development programs under its “People’s Budget”. In 2025, the budget set ambitious goals and large spending for infrastructure and social welfare. For example, the finance minister announced a capital expenditure of ₹9,447 crore, a seven-fold increase over 2017–18, to build roads, smart infrastructure, and improve city planning.

Tourism is a major focus. The government secured ₹199 crore from a central tourism scheme for building “world-class” tourist sites. This funding is being used to redevelop Umiam Lake and to build a new destination at Mawkhanu near Shillong. Umiam Lake is getting new parks, cultural pavilions, and an amphitheater. After development, Umiam’s visitor count is expected to jump from about 16,000 to over 127,000 per year. The Mawkhanu project will include a theme park and event grounds to celebrate local culture (for example, hosting the Cherry Blossom Festival). These projects aim to create thousands of jobs and boost eco-tourism.

Infrastructure

Several infrastructure projects are in progress. Road connectivity is improving: a new expressway upgrade on NH-6 (Guwahati–Silchar–Shillong) and a Western Bypass around Shillong are underway. Air connectivity is also expanding. The Shillong (Umroi) Airport is being expanded. In May 2025, the Meghalaya High Court ordered the state government to hand over land for expansion to the Airports Authority of India. The AAI needs 22 acres; most has been arranged with the Defence Department, and the rest is to be acquired. Once done, flights can increase from Shillong.

Rail connectivity remains limited. Meghalaya has one railway station at Mendipathar in Garo Hills (opened in 2014). Long-planned rail lines to Shillong and Jowai (from Assam) face local opposition and delays. By mid-2025, reports said the rail projects might be shelved due to protests. The funds (over ₹209 crore) given earlier for land acquisition had to be returned as work stalled. In short, Shillong still has no train link; travel by road or air is the way to enter Meghalaya.

Environment and Climate

Meghalaya’s heavy rains are both a blessing and a challenge. In early June 2025, the southwest monsoon arrived with fury. Torrential rain on May 30–31 caused floods and landslides in many districts. According to the state disaster authority, 86 villages were hit and at least six people died. Ri Bhoi and West Garo Hills saw severe flooding. The rains caused road blocks and property damage. The state responded with rescue and relief, and urged people to stay safe near swollen rivers.

On the positive side, the government is planting more trees. Meghalaya launched a large afforestation drive using the Miyawaki method – growing dense native mini-forests quickly. Over 25,000 hectares are being reforested. Chief Minister Conrad Sangma has promoted these Miyawaki groves, which plant local trees close together to restore green cover fast. The goal is to stabilize soil (against hill cutting and landslides) and fight climate change. These efforts, along with programs like “Green Meghalaya” and forest payments to villages, aim to reverse deforestation and protect biodiversity.

Coal mining is still a controversial issue. (Meghalaya’s rich coal reserves have been mostly mined by illegal small mines, which caused environmental damage.) In late 2024 the Supreme Court allowed “scientific” mining under strict conditions and created a ₹100 crore environmental fund. Local groups remain concerned about ecology. On its part, the state is moving toward renewable energy and environmental protection, as seen in the forest programs.

Tourism Guide

Meghalaya is a top travel destination in India. Tourists come for its scenic beauty, unique culture, and cool climate. Tourist arrivals have been growing each year. For example, since before the COVID period, visitors increased by about 33% as of 2025.

Top Attractions:

• Shillong: The misty capital city has parks, lakes, and viewpoints. Don’t miss Ward’s Lake, Shillong Peak (panoramic view of the city and hills), and Elephant Falls. The Don Bosco Museum showcases tribal cultures. The vibrant Police Bazaar is good for shopping local crafts.
• Cherrapunji (Sohra): Famous for record rain. Home to spectacular waterfalls like Nohkalikai Falls (the tallest plunge waterfall in India, over 340 m) and Seven Sisters Falls. Dense rain forests and caves (like Mawsmai Cave) surround the town. The Double Decker Living Root Bridge at Nongriat (and others in nearby villages) are engineering marvels made from tree roots【42†】. (The longest living root bridge is about 175 feet long.) These bridges, built by local tribes over centuries, are unique to Meghalaya. Trekking to Nongriat is a popular adventure (note: about 3–4 hours down and up).
• Mawlynnong: This village in East Khasi Hills is known as “Asia’s cleanest village”. It won awards for cleanliness and sanitation. Tourists visit for its tidy lanes, skywalk (glass-bottomed viewing platform over the valley), and another living root bridge. Simple homestays are available.
• Dawki (Umngot River): A border town in West Jaintia Hills. The Umngot River here is crystal-clear – you can see stones 20+ feet under the water. Boating on Umngot (with the boats looking like floating on air) is a must-do. There is an old suspension bridge to Bangladesh. Dawki’s sunrise over the river is famous for photographers.
• Umiam (Barapani) Lake: Just north of Shillong, this large reservoir is a hub for water sports (boating, kayaking). It has green wooded shores and an artificial beach park. The new redevelopment (under way) will add parks, gardens, and cultural sites.
• Tura and Garo Hills: In western Meghalaya, Tura is the largest town of the Garo Hills. Nearby are caves (like Siju Cave), wildlife sanctuaries (Nongkhyllem, Balpakram), and cultural attractions of the Garo tribes. The Wangala Festival (hundred drums) is celebrated here in November.

The famous living root bridges are a unique attraction. Indigenous Khasi and Jaintia people have, over generations, guided the roots of rubber trees to form strong rope-like bridges across streams. These organic bridges can last hundreds of years. Tourists often trek through jungle paths to see double-decker and single-decker root bridges at places like Nongriat and Cherrapunji.

Nature and Wildlife: Meghalaya is rich in biodiversity. About 70% of the state is forested. Wildlife sanctuaries like Nokrek and Balpakram protect rare species (elephants, gibbons, pythons, hornbills). The climate means many waterfalls and rivers: besides Nohkalikai and Seven Sisters, others include Elephant Falls (near Shillong) and Krang Suri Falls. The Mawphlang Sacred Forest (near Shillong) is an ancient grove with myths attached, home to rare plants. The state bird is the Hill Myna, and orchids bloom in the forests.

Cultural Sites: Don’t miss the Seven Khasi Rajas monoliths at Nartiang (near Jowai) – a historic site with stone pillars honoring ancient Khasi kings. Churches like the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians (Shillong) show colonial heritage. In Shillong, the David Scott School (1874) and the old Polo Ground have colonial buildings. The State Museum in Shillong exhibits tribal artifacts. Across Meghalaya, colorful tribal markets (haats) sell weaving, pottery, and bamboo crafts.

Festivals and Events: Local festivals are a window into tribal life.

• Nongkrem Dance Festival (Nov): A five-day Khasi harvest festival at Smit near Shillong, featuring dances to honor deities for good crops.
• Wangala (Nov): The Garo post-harvest festival “Hundred Drums” at Asanang (near Tura), with warrior dances and drum music.
• Behdienkhlam (July): The Jaintia festival at Jowai, where people parade chariots and play traditional games to invoke good health and harvest.
• Shad Suk Mynsiem (April): A three-day Khasi spring festival of thanksgiving, celebrated with community dances in Shillong. (A music fest is often held.)
• Shillong Autumn Festival (Oct-Nov): A cultural fair in Shillong and Cherrapunji showcasing music, dance, crafts, sports, and food.
• Cherry Blossom Festival (Nov): Citywide event in Shillong when shireish (Bauhinia) trees bloom. The 2024 festival featured international music acts and cultural programs.
• Strawberry Festival (April): In Laitkynsew, celebrating local strawberries with contests and cuisine.

Local Cuisine: Meghalaya’s food reflects tribal culture. Meals often use rice, pork, and local herbs. Specialty dishes include:

• Jadoh – red rice cooked with pork, spices and herbs.
• Dohneiiong – pork cooked with black sesame seeds (a Khasi favorite).
• Nakham Bitchi – dried fermented fish curry with vegetables.
• Tungrymbai – fermented soybeans (eaten with pork).
• Tungtap – pickled fish (used as a spicy seasoning).
• Pumaloi – sticky rice bread cooked in banana leaves.
  Khasi-style bhut jolokia chillies add spice. Also try Doh shulryi (pork soup) and Pukhlein (sweet rice bread). Local markets have snacks like Khasi khut (deep-fried lentil fritters) and fruits (strawberries in Laitumkhrah, pineapples in Tura). Shillong also has many modern cafes and restaurants serving Chinese, Continental, and Indian dishes.

Accommodations: Travelers can find guesthouses and hotels in Shillong (from budget to mid-range). Cherrapunji, Mawsynram, and Dawki have cottages and home-stays. In Mawlynnong and villages, you can stay in basic guest houses or forest lodges. Tura has hotels in town. It is advisable to book in advance during October–March (peak season).

Travel Tips

• Best Time to Visit: October to May is ideal. The weather is cool and dry. October–November is pleasant with clear skies. February is cool and dry (good for trekking). Avoid the heavy monsoon months (June–September), as roads can be blocked by landslides and many attractions get flooded. If you do visit in monsoon, be prepared for rain and take caution near swollen rivers.
• Getting There: By air, Shillong’s Umroi Airport has flights from major Indian cities (though it is small). Most travelers fly to Guwahati (Assam) and then drive (about 3–4 hours to Shillong on NH-6). Direct overnight buses and shared taxis run from Guwahati to Shillong. By train, Guwahati is the nearest major station; Mendipathar (Garo) is the only station in Meghalaya, with daily trains to Guwahati. Road travel: Meghalaya’s state highways link with national highways. The main roads are winding hill roads, so go slow.
• Permits: Meghalaya is not covered by the central Inner Line Permit system used in some NE states (e.g. Arunachal). Indian citizens can travel anywhere in Meghalaya without a special permit. However, under the Meghalaya Residents’ Safety and Security Act 2016, any visitor staying over 24 hours should register with local authorities (this applies especially to foreigners). In practice, tourists usually do not face hassles, but check with local police or tour operators if unsure.
• Local Transport: To reach remote spots (like Dawki or root bridges), you may need a rented car or shared jeep. Shared taxis (sumos) run from Shillong to Cherrapunji, Jowai, Tura, and Dawki. In Shillong, taxis and rickshaws are available, and MTDC buses offer tours to nearby sites. Roads in the hills can be narrow, so allow extra travel time.
• Health & Safety: Meghalaya is generally safe. Always drink bottled water and be cautious of food hygiene in small eateries. Mosquito repellent is advised in summer. The hilly terrain means sudden weather changes; carry warm clothes especially at night. Avoid trekking alone in forests. Mobile network coverage is good in Shillong and major towns, but can be patchy in remote areas. ATMs are common in big towns but not in villages, so carry some cash. Be sure to pack rain gear if visiting during the shoulder season (April/May or Sept/Oct).
• What to Pack: Layers of clothing (days can be warm, nights cold). Comfortable walking shoes for hikes. Sunblock and hats for daytime. If visiting religious or tribal sites, modest dress is respectful.
• Local Customs: Respect local culture. Removing shoes may be required at some sacred groves or temples. In rural areas, ask before photographing people or their homes.
• Connectivity: English is widely spoken. Khasi and Garo phrases are appreciated by locals (e.g. Khublei means thank you). The state uses Indian rupees; ATMs accept major cards but might run out of cash during rush season.

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Author- Ayush